War and The New Look: Fashion in the 1940's

Fashion in the 1940's was defined largely by the onset of World War II in 1939. Because wartime rationing meant less consumer buying power, ornaments were rare and clothes were kept simple and practical. Nylon and wool were required by American soldiers, and Japanese silk was banned following the attack on Pearl Harbor. Thus, versatile rayon emerged as the prominent material for women's clothing. Women's dresses were knee-length and had padded shoulders. A popular jacket form was the peplum, which narrowed hips while flattering the waist. During the war, fashion lost its center in Paris, with the tragic closing of Chanel's couture house.

1940's Trench Coats

Sportswear and multiple layered pieces became popular because allowed for more combinations of clothing and thus a more diverse wardrobe. Despite austere silhouettes, suits, and overalls, femininity was preserved through curls and lipstick. Working women sometimes had to wear slacks or blue jeans, making both common articles of clothing. Pants became common features of fashion, popularized by actresses who flaunted them on the silver screen.

Actress Katharine Hepburn popularized slacks

Wartime shortages of textiles meant a shortening of hemlines that in turn placed a greater emphasis on female legs. Short, boxy designs were in style, partially out of necessity, popularized by movie stars and pin-up girls like Betty Grable. The scarcity of fabric also gave rise to the first bikinis; two piece swimsuits with bared midriffs were solutions to the issue of material shortage. Even shortened bobby socks and shoes saved material by adopting short heels and T-bar and open toe designs.

Actress Lauren Bacall wore popular fashions in her movies

The First Bikinis!

Starting in 1947, however, with the end of the war, a movement known as "The New Look" began to gain popularity, pushing Paris back to the spotlight of the haute couture scene.This movement was pioneered by the brilliant Christian Dior, and focused on accentuating curves and an hourglass figure. Features of these fashions include narrow corseted waists, long full skirts, soft sloping shoulders, and full busts. This contrasted dramatically with the previous wartime simplicity, winning approval from some but disgust from others.

Christian Dior's "New Look"

Sources:
http://womens-fashion.lovetoknow.com/Women's_Fashion_1940's
http://doloresmonet.hubpages.com/hub/Fashion-History-Design-Trends-of-the-1040s

Pick of the Day: December 1, 2011

Carolina Herrera Resort 2012 Collection

I came across this collection today on www.fashioncollections.org, and I literally saved just about every image in the lookbook. The first thing that caught my eye was the vibrancy of the red and black poppy print on white. I love floral designs, but it's easy to go wrong with them if they're overdone or boring. This print, however, looks almost alive, the way the paint splatters seem to flow and drag along in the presence of some nonexistent wind. Upon taking a closer look at the other pieces in the collection, I was thrilled to find that they displayed a wide range of different patterns and designs, each different and yet harmonious with the next. Crisp, solid white gives way to blazing red, which turns the stage over to playful black and white polka dots, and finally to lavender and orange silk and flowing golden tulle. 

As a bonus, each design reminded me of different eras in fashion history, which may have been a basis of inspiration for the collection. The two pictures posted today, for example, showcase pieces that bear resemblance to the day wear of the 1940's, during which knee-length dresses and collared tailored or trench coats, belted at the waist, became popular (and still are today, as this collection proves).

There are at least ten other looks from this collection that I want to post about at some point in the future. I think I will devote a few days especially to this collection, posting pictures in sets according to which era they belong in. I've been reading through 20th Century Fashion, by John Peacock, and the illustrations are incredibly useful in my mission to pinpoint certain trends fast. If I can figure out how to, I might try to upload scans of pages alongside historically-inspired picks of the day, to show the similarities between them.