Pick of the Day: April 25, 2012

ROMWE Starry Anomalous Shift Dress

I came across this colorful number while browsing today, and it stuck out to me. I remember mentioning my love of the galaxy print earlier in the course of this research project, and this dress brought back memories of that. The asymmetrical form of the dress is very much in style this season, and although I'm personally ambivalent towards it, I think this pairing of the colorful dress with the dark tights is a smart move.

Pick of the Day: April 10, 2012

Lyn Devon Fall 2011 Collection

I was browsing through some old collections just for kicks today, and this caught my eye. I love what this has done with an otherwise plain black and white striped dress by adding the sheer element to the bottom. Not only is the design flattering for the legs, it also makes it unique and almost futuristic. I feel like I'm looking at a television screen. The lines are crisp, the silhouette clean, and the overall design interesting enough to warrant a lingering glance. If anything, I would probably write this off as a summer collection piece rather than fall, although the dark colors do pose a bit of an issue in that respect.

Fashion in the 1970's

With each increasing decade, women gained more and more freedom in their choice of clothing. By the 1970's,  fashion was at its most wild, carefree, and diverse.

Skirt lengths varied for women, from the shortest (micro mini) to the longest (maxi) lengths. Catsuits, trouser suits, disco-inspired hot pants, and midi skirts were also worn, among other innovative new clothing items. Flared trousers and waistcoats, in particular, were very fashionable, in part due to movie stars such as Farrah Fawcett wearing them in films. For dresses, most designs were either straight or empire-waisted, often extravagant and adorned. Halter necks or Granny dresses with high lace necks were also popular.

Actress Farrah Fawcett popularized Flared Trousers

The hippie fashion of the 1960's carried over into this decade as well. Exotic influences popularized caftans, kimonos, and other styles of loose robes and wild prints. The use of the most innovative materials was usually reserved for nightlife. Discos were wildly popular, and clothing was designed to show off the body. Stretchy lycra, spandex, and velour clothes were decorated with sequins or metallic colors to make them noticeable under dance-floor lights.

Kaftans

To keep up with the new liberal lifestyle full of retro dance parties, shoes had to be comfortable but fashionable. Platform heels became iconic for shoes of the era, ranging from 1 inches to as much as 4. Women who wanted to flaunt their legs wore white stockings with black patent leather shoes. The release of the Wonder Woman series made knee-high boots popular, especially paired with hot pants.

Disco Fashion

Changes in purchasing power meant consumers could now buy individual clothing items without worrying about finding matching pieces, as color schemed clothes started disappearing from department stores. This meant buyers had more freedom to mix and match single pieces.

Sources:
http://pongogirl2.hubpages.com/hub/1970s-Fashion
http://www.skwirk.com/p-c_s-14_u-189_t-508_c-1883/fashion-in-the-1970s/nsw/history/australia-s-social-and-cultural-history-in-the-post-war-period/social-and-cultural-features-of-the-1970s

Pick of the Day: April 6, 2012

Yves Saint Laurent Iconic "Mondrian" Day Dress (Autumn 1965)

I know this isn't a recent design, but there's nothing quite like a classic. I love this timeless design: it embodies the bold colors and striking geometric prints of the 60's so well, to the point that it screams "Mod". I have such admiration for such iconic staples of haute couture, and this unforgettable piece by YSL is definitely one of my personal favorites.

Fashion in the 1960's

The 1960's were without a doubt one of the most important decades for women. The growing youth culture, feminist movement, and other liberal sentiments were reflected in the similarly liberal nature of period fashion. Colorful, unusual fabrics and bold designs previously avoided for their flamboyant appearance were used, and previous conventions rejected. The rise of unisex clothing, such as blue jeans, also occurred as the distinct separations between male and female clothing weakened. New synthetic materials inspired by the hype surrounding space exploration, such as polyester, PVC, plastic, and vinyl were also popular. Make-up, like fashion, was very bold. Fashion icon Twiggy popularized dramatic eyes with spiked lashes.

Model Twiggy's Trademark Look

"Mod" fashion, a movement short for "modern" spread to the United States quickly from Europe. Focusing on innovative slim fits and bold geometric shapes, these fashions were made available to the public through mass production. The youth culture of rebellion developed new fashion items, such as the mini-skirt, a radical rise of the hemline from the previous knee-length standard. Mini-skirts were perceived as statements by women of their personal ownership of their own bodies. Other youths embraced the newly emerging hippie culture, welcoming lifestyles emphasizing peace, love, freedom, and alternative lifestyles with drugs and communal living. Their clothing, which was often inspired by non-Western cultures, included paisley prints, beads, fringes, leather, and embellished or tye-dyed t-shirts. New styles of jeans emerged, the most popular being bell-bottoms.

1960's Hippie Culture

In coats, shorter, fuller coat shapes were favored, and layers were used to create various outfits. Tunic tops and tiered skirts were popular for this purpose. Clothing emphasized a new sort of "soft fullness", often achieved through relaxed shaping or relaxed waistlines. Designs nevertheless emphasized contoured figures.

1960's Fashions

First Lady and Fashion Icon Jacqueline Kennedy

If you want to do some more reading up on how fashion trends of the 60's have impacted modern fashion, here's a cute site titled appropriately, "10 Ways the 1960's Invented Today's Fashion Trends". It's wonderful to see how history connects within itself in a network of cause and effect.
Link: http://sammydvintage.com/vintage-style/60s/fashion-in-the-1960s/

Sources:
http://www.skwirk.com.au/p-c_s-14_u-189_t-507_c-1878/fashion-in-the-1960s/nsw/history/australia-s-social-and-cultural-history-in-the-post-war-period/social-and-cultural-features-of-the-1960s
http://historywired.si.edu/detail.cfm?ID=119
http://www.paperpast.com/html/1960_fashion.html

Pick of the Day: March 31, 2012

Christophe Josse Spring 2012

I'm a sucker for nude tones, and I loved the look of these champagne pieces put together. The soft silk of the blouse and the metallic crocodile skin skirt are both almost luminescent in appearance, which sets off their otherwise plain color. The fit combines loose and flowing with straight and slim, accentuating features without being excessive. The entire ensemble has an almost dreamlike, fairytale quality about it, and embodies my ideal form of beauty; simple yet sophisticated.

Fashion in the 1950's

Halfway through with the 20th century! Today, I did some research on women's fashion in the 1950's.

The first source I went to is the blog of my friend, Sarah, who is researching a similar topic as mine. Her blog (http://lavendor.tumblr.com/) is full of wonderful pictures of both women's and men's fashion from this decade specifically. If you want to find out more about the 50's, take a look!

Three 1950's Fashions

America in the 1950's was just emerging from the restrictions of war into an age of relative prosperity. The development of new financial institutions, including a credit card system, meant that consumer buying power increased, and consequently, more manufactured clothing could also be bought. The youth culture that started developing in the 1940's continued to grow during this time, influenced by British non-conformism (such as the neo-Edwardian "Teddy Boys") and the rise of rock-and-roll. The youth culture has sometimes been referred to as the Beat Generation

Woman in "Teddy Boy"-inspired Clothing

Postwar women roles were also beginning to return to the ideal of a homemaker. The ideal woman was characterized as "doe-eyed" and "feminine", features achieved through the use of mascara and fitted dress forms. Fashion emphasized femininity: soft shoulders, stiletto heels, wrist gloves, and full skirts. Dress forms such as the chemise dress (with a waist line determined at whim using a belt) or the sleeveless dress were also favored for their convenient wear and availability. Fabrics such as velvet, tulle, and chiffon gained popularity, as well as the iconic staples of patent leather and fur. Dior continued to hold a prestigious role in haute couture, continuing from the previous decade, releasing new couture fashions such as the Princess Line, the A Line, the H Line, and the Profile Line. Corsets and conical brassieres also became popular in order to achieve the ideal figure.

Actress and Style Icon Audrey Hepburn

Work wear included sleek pencil skirts and ornamentation such as small hats, veils, and feathers. The notable tailor's suit figure consisted of a straight skirt and a jacket like an old riding habit, complete with high lapels, narrow sleeves, and single-breasted design.

Woman in Tailored Suit

Sources:
http://www.enjoy-your-style.com/1950s-fashion.html
http://www.paperpast.com/html/1950_fashion.html

Pick of the Day: March 24, 2012

Jean Paul Gaultier Spring 2012

Leave it to Gaultier to design a line of fashion especially dedicated to the memory of Amy Winehouse (down to the beehive hair and winged eyeliner!) I liked the eccentricity of the pieces in this collection: elegant yet unconventional. The structured fit of the pieces and the combination of dark and bright colors support this interesting mix. I especially love the black lace trenchcoat paired with the pop of orange. The jacket below is probably one of the most interesting pieces of the collection, in my opinion. One arm is covered in a full sleeve, and the other wrapped in an almost shawl. It puts a novel spin on the classic one-shoulder design of clothing that I find intriguing. With design, you can't be afraid to take risks.

War and The New Look: Fashion in the 1940's

Fashion in the 1940's was defined largely by the onset of World War II in 1939. Because wartime rationing meant less consumer buying power, ornaments were rare and clothes were kept simple and practical. Nylon and wool were required by American soldiers, and Japanese silk was banned following the attack on Pearl Harbor. Thus, versatile rayon emerged as the prominent material for women's clothing. Women's dresses were knee-length and had padded shoulders. A popular jacket form was the peplum, which narrowed hips while flattering the waist. During the war, fashion lost its center in Paris, with the tragic closing of Chanel's couture house.

1940's Trench Coats

Sportswear and multiple layered pieces became popular because allowed for more combinations of clothing and thus a more diverse wardrobe. Despite austere silhouettes, suits, and overalls, femininity was preserved through curls and lipstick. Working women sometimes had to wear slacks or blue jeans, making both common articles of clothing. Pants became common features of fashion, popularized by actresses who flaunted them on the silver screen.

Actress Katharine Hepburn popularized slacks

Wartime shortages of textiles meant a shortening of hemlines that in turn placed a greater emphasis on female legs. Short, boxy designs were in style, partially out of necessity, popularized by movie stars and pin-up girls like Betty Grable. The scarcity of fabric also gave rise to the first bikinis; two piece swimsuits with bared midriffs were solutions to the issue of material shortage. Even shortened bobby socks and shoes saved material by adopting short heels and T-bar and open toe designs.

Actress Lauren Bacall wore popular fashions in her movies

The First Bikinis!

Starting in 1947, however, with the end of the war, a movement known as "The New Look" began to gain popularity, pushing Paris back to the spotlight of the haute couture scene.This movement was pioneered by the brilliant Christian Dior, and focused on accentuating curves and an hourglass figure. Features of these fashions include narrow corseted waists, long full skirts, soft sloping shoulders, and full busts. This contrasted dramatically with the previous wartime simplicity, winning approval from some but disgust from others.

Christian Dior's "New Look"

Sources:
http://womens-fashion.lovetoknow.com/Women's_Fashion_1940's
http://doloresmonet.hubpages.com/hub/Fashion-History-Design-Trends-of-the-1040s

Pick of the Day: March 10, 2012

Ralph Lauren Daryn Dress

I have an obsession with little black dresses (I personally own about 16), but this is probably one of my favorites of all time. From the front, this sleek, vaguely Oriental number looks relatively plain and insignificant and hardly worth the almost $4,498 it retails for. But when you view it from the back...

A large portion of the back is embellished with a stunning, beaded Chinese dragon design on sheer fabric. The overall dress is so simple, and yet so intricate; the ultimate effect it produces is one of effortless elegance, which I really admire. The dress has most famously been sported by Rooney Mara on November 2011's issue of Vogue (which is fitting, for the Girl with the Dragon Tattoo actress). The simplicity and sophistication of this little black dress reminds me a little bit of the iconic black dress sported by Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany's, but with a twist. I think it's absolutely wonderful.

More Chanel!

While I'm at this Chanel research, I figured I'd add some more to this plethora of Coco adding up on this blog. I found a website (http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/chnl/hd_chnl.htm) with pictures of real items from Chanel's early 1920's collections, and thought it was incredible to see the actual iconic pieces that started so many classic fashion trends and changed the face of fashion.

         

 Evening Dress (c.1926-27)                        Day Ensemble (c. 1927)             

                  

           

Evening Coat (c. 1927)                                Day Ensemble (c. 1927)

  

Shirt (c. 1935-37)                                                 Theater Suit (1938)

Coco Chanel

I was doing some research on Coco Chanel for my French IA, and I wandered across this. It's a short video on Chanel's life and legacy, and I thought it fit in nicely with the research I'm conducting here.

Pick of the Day: February 14, 2012

Happy Valentine's Day!

The two looks featured here come from the Jason Wu Fall 2012 Collection. I chose this collection to be featured today because I think the pieces have a sultry, romantic appeal to them without needing the stereotypical frills and rosy hues often associated with the holiday for celebrating love. This collection adopts an Oriental influence with its choice of floral prints and vibrant colors that I adored, and the beading and embroidery details are just gorgeous. Several pieces also made use of furs and structured forms, lending the clothing an elegant, sophisticated feel. I thought this collection also echoed the trends of the 1910's, namely the Orientalism, use of furs, and occasional hobble skirt design.

My favorite piece from all of them is, however, the dress below, a stunning LBD (I'll be the first to confess I have an unhealthy obsession with those) with a high slit and belted waist. The fit is flattering, and the shoulder detailing adds the perfect amount of adornment to an otherwise simple number. 

Pick of the Day: February 12, 2012

Lanvin Spring/Summer 2011 Ready-to-Wear Collection

This is yet another .gif animation, so click through to see it in motion. I loved the flowing lines and warm, earthy tones of this ensemble. The way the fabric moves and sort of catches in the air makes it look almost ethereal. It's simple, but elegant, and elaborate without being overdone. 

Pick of the Day: February 4, 2012

Carolina Herrera Resort 2012 Collection

I promised I would return to this collection periodically as I conducted more research! I wasn't exaggerating when I said that there is literally a piece for every decade of the twentieth century among its pieces. This particular, shimmering number reminded me of the flowing form and glowing opulence of the 1930's. The draping skirt and folds recalled the popular bias cut of the era, and the use of what appears to be almost metallic embroidery or fabric reflects the air of glamour that was present in the evening dresses of the era. I can almost imagine the iconic Ginger Rogers in this sparkling number. The epitome of elegance.

Fashion in the 1930's

The 1930's witnessed a return from the casual, boyish looks of the Roaring Twenties to a more sophisticated, ladylike style. Round busts, gentle waistlines, and sleek, streamlined forms were popular and characteristic of the era. The cloche hat of the '20's was replaced with small, flat hats. Wealthy women could afford to wear elaborate gowns at night, embellished with sequins and beads.

One of the most popular trends of this era was the so-called bias method of cross-cutting. This was a design  popularized by French designer Madeleine Vionnet, who also made famous designs such as the cowl neck and halter neck. This method, which involved cutting fabrics at a 45-degree angle rather than a straight grain, allowed the fabric to drape in sinuous folds and move with the curves of the body. Dresses of satin, silk, chiffon, and more could produce fluid, tight-fitting dress forms that showed off women's slender bodies (the invention of contraception during this era meant women could make conscious decisions about having children, and thus many chose not to). Tans were considered attractive in this time period, and thus many dresses featured open backs to show off tans.

Bias Cut Dresses

Glamorous evening gowns made of lightweight materials and following the trends of bias cuts and streamlined figures were popularized by such glamorous stars of the era such as the dancer and actress Ginger Rogers, who made the look iconic. The following are some of her gorgeous gowns, which have earned her a reputation as a style icon.

 

Actress/Dancer Ginger Rogers

Other trends that gained popularity during this era included pleated knee-length skirts longer in the back than in the front, the use of zippers in clothing (promoted by Italian designer Elsa Schiaparelli, Chanel's rival), the replacement of bulky stockings with newly-invented nylon hose, and sport dress, which included suit-like patterns and the newly-permitted female trousers. 

Early in the decade, disaster struck in the form of the 1929 Stock Market crash that sent millions of Americans in economic crisis overnight. Though this crisis was mostly alleviated halfway through the decade, new conflict awaited as the stirrings of war with Europe were already being felt by the end of the ten years. At this point, the opulent, glamorous lifestyle and way of dress of the 30's was beginning to give way to the need for functionality in the form of trousers and sweaters.

Sources:
http://fashion-era.com/stylish_thirties.htm
http://tirocchi.stg.brown.edu/514/story/fashion_thirties.html

Pick of the Day: January 29, 2012

Karmen Pedaru & Kate King in Chloé Spring/Summer 2012

I know it's not quite spring yet, but I'm already anticipating warm, sunny days and fragrant blooms. I love the streaks of color that liven up these otherwise plain white numbers; to me, it echoes the season of springtime, as the monochromatic barrenness of winter is interrupted by new life and color. The flowing forms and vibrant stripes could even carry over into summertime.

TWIST Wrap Dress

The TWIST Wrap Dress

This video is a pretty good example of what I meant in the last post when I mentioned the Infinity Dress. This is a short demonstration of how long straps can be used to make a bunch of different designs. I loved this concept, so I decided to try a makeshift version of this dress using materials I could find around my own home. Needless to say, it did not turn out as well as the examples set in this video, but I think the experimentation is a good first step towards reproducing this final product in the future. I will continue to work with this idea; to create a convertible dress that might be able to demonstrate the different fashion styles of different eras would be a wonderful way to demonstrate the bridge between fashion of the past and the future.

Pick of the Day: January 1, 2012

Happy New Year!

Zac Posen Pre-Fall 2012 Collection

I figured there was nothing quite like a New Years' dress pick to start off 2012, and Zac Posen was almost an unquestionable go-to for the occasion. I love this collection for its trademark elegance and romance. All the pieces are beautiful and flattering, marked by floral embroidering, structured shoulders, flowing skirts, and a particular design emphasis on the waist. I liked how this deep, vibrant red number stood out in stark contrast to the rest of the collection, in both its unique full skirt (most of the other pieces are fishtail bottoms) and bold color (amidst charcoal grays, deep blues, and lavender). At any New Years' gala, this dress would be sure to turn more than a few heads. It has a certain show-stopping quality to it, but it's not so exaggerated that it loses its touch of femininity or its hint of playfulness. Beautiful.