Fashion in the 1970's

With each increasing decade, women gained more and more freedom in their choice of clothing. By the 1970's,  fashion was at its most wild, carefree, and diverse.

Skirt lengths varied for women, from the shortest (micro mini) to the longest (maxi) lengths. Catsuits, trouser suits, disco-inspired hot pants, and midi skirts were also worn, among other innovative new clothing items. Flared trousers and waistcoats, in particular, were very fashionable, in part due to movie stars such as Farrah Fawcett wearing them in films. For dresses, most designs were either straight or empire-waisted, often extravagant and adorned. Halter necks or Granny dresses with high lace necks were also popular.

Actress Farrah Fawcett popularized Flared Trousers

The hippie fashion of the 1960's carried over into this decade as well. Exotic influences popularized caftans, kimonos, and other styles of loose robes and wild prints. The use of the most innovative materials was usually reserved for nightlife. Discos were wildly popular, and clothing was designed to show off the body. Stretchy lycra, spandex, and velour clothes were decorated with sequins or metallic colors to make them noticeable under dance-floor lights.

Kaftans

To keep up with the new liberal lifestyle full of retro dance parties, shoes had to be comfortable but fashionable. Platform heels became iconic for shoes of the era, ranging from 1 inches to as much as 4. Women who wanted to flaunt their legs wore white stockings with black patent leather shoes. The release of the Wonder Woman series made knee-high boots popular, especially paired with hot pants.

Disco Fashion

Changes in purchasing power meant consumers could now buy individual clothing items without worrying about finding matching pieces, as color schemed clothes started disappearing from department stores. This meant buyers had more freedom to mix and match single pieces.

Sources:
http://pongogirl2.hubpages.com/hub/1970s-Fashion
http://www.skwirk.com/p-c_s-14_u-189_t-508_c-1883/fashion-in-the-1970s/nsw/history/australia-s-social-and-cultural-history-in-the-post-war-period/social-and-cultural-features-of-the-1970s

Fashion in the 1960's

The 1960's were without a doubt one of the most important decades for women. The growing youth culture, feminist movement, and other liberal sentiments were reflected in the similarly liberal nature of period fashion. Colorful, unusual fabrics and bold designs previously avoided for their flamboyant appearance were used, and previous conventions rejected. The rise of unisex clothing, such as blue jeans, also occurred as the distinct separations between male and female clothing weakened. New synthetic materials inspired by the hype surrounding space exploration, such as polyester, PVC, plastic, and vinyl were also popular. Make-up, like fashion, was very bold. Fashion icon Twiggy popularized dramatic eyes with spiked lashes.

Model Twiggy's Trademark Look

"Mod" fashion, a movement short for "modern" spread to the United States quickly from Europe. Focusing on innovative slim fits and bold geometric shapes, these fashions were made available to the public through mass production. The youth culture of rebellion developed new fashion items, such as the mini-skirt, a radical rise of the hemline from the previous knee-length standard. Mini-skirts were perceived as statements by women of their personal ownership of their own bodies. Other youths embraced the newly emerging hippie culture, welcoming lifestyles emphasizing peace, love, freedom, and alternative lifestyles with drugs and communal living. Their clothing, which was often inspired by non-Western cultures, included paisley prints, beads, fringes, leather, and embellished or tye-dyed t-shirts. New styles of jeans emerged, the most popular being bell-bottoms.

1960's Hippie Culture

In coats, shorter, fuller coat shapes were favored, and layers were used to create various outfits. Tunic tops and tiered skirts were popular for this purpose. Clothing emphasized a new sort of "soft fullness", often achieved through relaxed shaping or relaxed waistlines. Designs nevertheless emphasized contoured figures.

1960's Fashions

First Lady and Fashion Icon Jacqueline Kennedy

If you want to do some more reading up on how fashion trends of the 60's have impacted modern fashion, here's a cute site titled appropriately, "10 Ways the 1960's Invented Today's Fashion Trends". It's wonderful to see how history connects within itself in a network of cause and effect.
Link: http://sammydvintage.com/vintage-style/60s/fashion-in-the-1960s/

Sources:
http://www.skwirk.com.au/p-c_s-14_u-189_t-507_c-1878/fashion-in-the-1960s/nsw/history/australia-s-social-and-cultural-history-in-the-post-war-period/social-and-cultural-features-of-the-1960s
http://historywired.si.edu/detail.cfm?ID=119
http://www.paperpast.com/html/1960_fashion.html

Fashion in the 1950's

Halfway through with the 20th century! Today, I did some research on women's fashion in the 1950's.

The first source I went to is the blog of my friend, Sarah, who is researching a similar topic as mine. Her blog (http://lavendor.tumblr.com/) is full of wonderful pictures of both women's and men's fashion from this decade specifically. If you want to find out more about the 50's, take a look!

Three 1950's Fashions

America in the 1950's was just emerging from the restrictions of war into an age of relative prosperity. The development of new financial institutions, including a credit card system, meant that consumer buying power increased, and consequently, more manufactured clothing could also be bought. The youth culture that started developing in the 1940's continued to grow during this time, influenced by British non-conformism (such as the neo-Edwardian "Teddy Boys") and the rise of rock-and-roll. The youth culture has sometimes been referred to as the Beat Generation

Woman in "Teddy Boy"-inspired Clothing

Postwar women roles were also beginning to return to the ideal of a homemaker. The ideal woman was characterized as "doe-eyed" and "feminine", features achieved through the use of mascara and fitted dress forms. Fashion emphasized femininity: soft shoulders, stiletto heels, wrist gloves, and full skirts. Dress forms such as the chemise dress (with a waist line determined at whim using a belt) or the sleeveless dress were also favored for their convenient wear and availability. Fabrics such as velvet, tulle, and chiffon gained popularity, as well as the iconic staples of patent leather and fur. Dior continued to hold a prestigious role in haute couture, continuing from the previous decade, releasing new couture fashions such as the Princess Line, the A Line, the H Line, and the Profile Line. Corsets and conical brassieres also became popular in order to achieve the ideal figure.

Actress and Style Icon Audrey Hepburn

Work wear included sleek pencil skirts and ornamentation such as small hats, veils, and feathers. The notable tailor's suit figure consisted of a straight skirt and a jacket like an old riding habit, complete with high lapels, narrow sleeves, and single-breasted design.

Woman in Tailored Suit

Sources:
http://www.enjoy-your-style.com/1950s-fashion.html
http://www.paperpast.com/html/1950_fashion.html

War and The New Look: Fashion in the 1940's

Fashion in the 1940's was defined largely by the onset of World War II in 1939. Because wartime rationing meant less consumer buying power, ornaments were rare and clothes were kept simple and practical. Nylon and wool were required by American soldiers, and Japanese silk was banned following the attack on Pearl Harbor. Thus, versatile rayon emerged as the prominent material for women's clothing. Women's dresses were knee-length and had padded shoulders. A popular jacket form was the peplum, which narrowed hips while flattering the waist. During the war, fashion lost its center in Paris, with the tragic closing of Chanel's couture house.

1940's Trench Coats

Sportswear and multiple layered pieces became popular because allowed for more combinations of clothing and thus a more diverse wardrobe. Despite austere silhouettes, suits, and overalls, femininity was preserved through curls and lipstick. Working women sometimes had to wear slacks or blue jeans, making both common articles of clothing. Pants became common features of fashion, popularized by actresses who flaunted them on the silver screen.

Actress Katharine Hepburn popularized slacks

Wartime shortages of textiles meant a shortening of hemlines that in turn placed a greater emphasis on female legs. Short, boxy designs were in style, partially out of necessity, popularized by movie stars and pin-up girls like Betty Grable. The scarcity of fabric also gave rise to the first bikinis; two piece swimsuits with bared midriffs were solutions to the issue of material shortage. Even shortened bobby socks and shoes saved material by adopting short heels and T-bar and open toe designs.

Actress Lauren Bacall wore popular fashions in her movies

The First Bikinis!

Starting in 1947, however, with the end of the war, a movement known as "The New Look" began to gain popularity, pushing Paris back to the spotlight of the haute couture scene.This movement was pioneered by the brilliant Christian Dior, and focused on accentuating curves and an hourglass figure. Features of these fashions include narrow corseted waists, long full skirts, soft sloping shoulders, and full busts. This contrasted dramatically with the previous wartime simplicity, winning approval from some but disgust from others.

Christian Dior's "New Look"

Sources:
http://womens-fashion.lovetoknow.com/Women's_Fashion_1940's
http://doloresmonet.hubpages.com/hub/Fashion-History-Design-Trends-of-the-1040s

Fashion in the 1930's

The 1930's witnessed a return from the casual, boyish looks of the Roaring Twenties to a more sophisticated, ladylike style. Round busts, gentle waistlines, and sleek, streamlined forms were popular and characteristic of the era. The cloche hat of the '20's was replaced with small, flat hats. Wealthy women could afford to wear elaborate gowns at night, embellished with sequins and beads.

One of the most popular trends of this era was the so-called bias method of cross-cutting. This was a design  popularized by French designer Madeleine Vionnet, who also made famous designs such as the cowl neck and halter neck. This method, which involved cutting fabrics at a 45-degree angle rather than a straight grain, allowed the fabric to drape in sinuous folds and move with the curves of the body. Dresses of satin, silk, chiffon, and more could produce fluid, tight-fitting dress forms that showed off women's slender bodies (the invention of contraception during this era meant women could make conscious decisions about having children, and thus many chose not to). Tans were considered attractive in this time period, and thus many dresses featured open backs to show off tans.

Bias Cut Dresses

Glamorous evening gowns made of lightweight materials and following the trends of bias cuts and streamlined figures were popularized by such glamorous stars of the era such as the dancer and actress Ginger Rogers, who made the look iconic. The following are some of her gorgeous gowns, which have earned her a reputation as a style icon.

 

Actress/Dancer Ginger Rogers

Other trends that gained popularity during this era included pleated knee-length skirts longer in the back than in the front, the use of zippers in clothing (promoted by Italian designer Elsa Schiaparelli, Chanel's rival), the replacement of bulky stockings with newly-invented nylon hose, and sport dress, which included suit-like patterns and the newly-permitted female trousers. 

Early in the decade, disaster struck in the form of the 1929 Stock Market crash that sent millions of Americans in economic crisis overnight. Though this crisis was mostly alleviated halfway through the decade, new conflict awaited as the stirrings of war with Europe were already being felt by the end of the ten years. At this point, the opulent, glamorous lifestyle and way of dress of the 30's was beginning to give way to the need for functionality in the form of trousers and sweaters.

Sources:
http://fashion-era.com/stylish_thirties.htm
http://tirocchi.stg.brown.edu/514/story/fashion_thirties.html

Fashion in the 1910's

I realize that I skipped this decade and wrote about the 1920's a while ago, so I decided it's time to travel back into the past for another quick peek into the years between 1910 and 1919.

During these ten years, women's fashion underwent major changes. The previous rigidity of the century's first decade was replaced with a less restricted standard. In the first half of the decade, fashion was characterized by an air of opulence. Corsets became less tight, sometimes even minimal or completely neglected. The popular dress form of the era was slender and lithe, as opposed to the curvy ideals of the corseted past. The movement known as Art Nouveau also began in this era, a craze originating in Europe in response to the Industrial Revolution and that quickly spread to North America, characterized by geometric lines and decorative designs. A new craze for Orientalism also swept through the nation, popularizing exotic designs such as the kimono and turbans. Some of the most popular designers of this era included Paul Poiret, Jacques Doucet, and Mariano Fortuny. Waistlines were high and loose at the start of the decade, gradually dropping to the natural waistline as years passed. Tunics, tailored jackets, and fur coats were commonly worn over skirts, which were ankle to calf length.

Flowing forms and furs: elegance and splendor of early 1910's fashion

The latter half of the decade, however, found itself with a whole new set of fashion standards. World War I (1914-1919) meant that male designers were drafted into the army and trade with textile suppliers was cut off. However, the absence of men on duty meant that women gained an increased role in society. The hobble skirt that first appeared earlier in the decade remained a popular design, but its tight-fitting form restricted the wearer's stride. Shorter, calf-length skirts began appearing to accommodate more active lifestyles.

The Hobble Skirt

The absence of male designers also meant the opportunity for the rise of female ones. Coco Chanel (previously mentioned in the Roaring Twenties post) had her first start during this time, producing designs such as loose-fitting chemises with belts at the hip, casual pleated skirts, and expensive wool jerseys popular with the wealthy for their youthful, casual elegance. She also popularized the use of costume jewelry, which were cheap alternatives to expensive pieces that working women could wear while they labored. Large hats with wide brims, short-heeled shoes, and "tango" shoes were popular at this time as well.

The Rise of Chanel

Sources:
http://tirocchi.stg.brown.edu/514/story/fashion_teens.html
http://www.ariaaustin.com/1910s.html

The Roaring Twenties!

I realized I skipped a decade between this and the last post, but I've been looking forward to doing research on this decade for some time now, and I absolutely had to get it done. Since APUSH last year, when I first learned about American life in the tumultuous 1920's, epitomized by rebellious symbols such as the flapper girl, I've been anticipating an opportunity to look further into the subject. Here's a first look at what I've learned today.

The decade was characterized by a general air of rebellion and daring. Gangsters and bootleggers made use of city streets, and nightclubs became popular with the rise of the nightlife scene. So-called "Flaming Youths" lived day to day with risqué mottoes such as "Tomorrow we may die, so let's get drunk and make love." (Lois Long) The middle class also increased significantly in affluence.

"Flapper" fashion

Women's fashion during the Jazz Age was all about liberation. Following the end of World War I (1914-1918), women gained increasing prominence in the social and economic spheres, including winning the right to vote in 1920. Women who had experienced a taste of freedom and opportunity during the war, in the absence of men to control them, now spurned the stiff restrictions of previous Victorianism. Corsets and bustles only hindered their refined, expanded daily agendas. Dress hemlines gradually shrank over the decade, from being floor-length to mid-calf to knee-length, and waistlines also dropped lower and lower over time. The structured, fitted shapes of previous fashions was replaced by a new, relaxed fit, almost to the point that day dresses became entirely shapeless and hanging. Even shoe choice was affected by this new live-free ideal: T-bar heels became wildly popular, because women could dance in them for hours without worrying about them falling off. This new ideal in both social persona and physical appearance was epitomized by the Flapper Girl, who dressed in the garconne ("little boy") style popularized by the brilliant Coco Chanel and lived on the edge.

1920's Day Dresses

That's not to say, however, that fashion completely lost its elegance and elaborateness. High fashion designers that are still iconic today, such as Chanel, Lanvin, and Patou, had their beginnings in this decade. Fashion icons such as Louise Brooks popularized bobbed hair in the garconne style. Floral prints, pastel colors, and patterns inspired by the popular Art Deco style of the era were stylish trends, and evening gowns were no less elegant than in the past. Cloche hats, heeled shoes, matching accessories, and stockings or tights with garters were also popular at this time. Women tried to mimic men: girls cut their hair into short bobs, wore suits and sportswear, and lived lifestyles of sexual liberation similar to men's. However, on the other hand, women also began to wear makeup more avidly during this decade, behavior that in the past had only been carried out by loose women.

Fashion icon Louise Brooks

Sources:
http://www.1920s-fashion-and-music.com/1920s-fashion.html
http://fashionbloglife.com/1920sfashion/
http://glamourdaze.blogspot.com/2010/05/1920s-fashion-womens-dress-and-style.html
http://history1900s.about.com/od/1920s/a/flappers.htm

Fashion in the 1900's

Break is finally here, and with it, more time to work on this project! Today I decided to do some more research into fashion at the turn of the century. 

The twentieth century brought with it both the hope for something new, as well as a longing for the traditions of the Victorianism of the past. The decade from 1900 to 1910 was also known as the Edwardian Era, after Victoria's successor. It also embodied a part of La Belle Epoque, the French-named "Beautiful Age" of luxury and aesthetic beauty (Paris was the apex of the fashion world). In women's fashion, trends patterned themselves around the national ideal of femininity, embodied in the so-called Gibson Girl, named after the satirical ink illustrations by artist Charles Dana Gibson. In some ways, the Gibson Girl and Gibson Man were the Barbie and Ken of the era. Gibson girls embodied the era's ideal of women who were competitive, liberated, but nevertheless beautiful.

Gibson Girls as drawn by Charles Dana Gibson

The decade featured a new socialism and sense of identity. As more women began to find opportunity in the work force, the traveling and tailor suit and other tailored clothing began to emerge from the need for convenient, all-purpose clothing. However, women's fashion was still elaborate. Dresses were made in two pieces, and corsets and bustles were still common, if not mandated. The ideal body shape popularized by the Gibson Girl was hourglass, and partly due to the voluminousness of the upper portion of clothing, small, narrow feet were considered beautiful. Popular shoes were often narrow or pointed boots with short heels.

Sources:

http://buff-history.buzzsugar.com/History-Fashion-1900---1910-1535251

http://www.eyewitnesstohistory.com/gibson.htm

Elizabethan Era - 1

Wednesday, October 26, 2011

I've been studying for my Euro test tomorrow for hours, and figured it was about time I allowed myself a little break. Which basically translated into, "let's find indirect ways to continue subtly doing Euro."

I did some research into the Elizabethan era style of dress, though I only had time enough to skim the text and note down a few resources for future reference. Some sites I found useful that I might return to in the future are:

http://www.elizabethan-era.org.uk/elizabethan-clothing.htm

http://www.the-tudors.org.uk/tudor-clothes.htm

http://www.medieval-life-and-times.info/medieval-clothing/index.htm

In the Elizabethan era/Tudor dynasty/medieval times/whatever you choose to call it, clothing was very strictly moderated. Clothing worn by higher and middle or lower classes differed significantly. Women, in particular, were required to wear several pieces of clothing simultaneously, including multiple layers of undergarments and various accessory pieces. Certain laws, called Sumptuary Laws, governed the apparel worn by different individuals in society. Failure to adhere to these strict guidelines could result in severe punishments, from fines to loss of property or title, to death. It's little wonder there was not much room for creative fashion design back then...