Fashion in the 1910's

I realize that I skipped this decade and wrote about the 1920's a while ago, so I decided it's time to travel back into the past for another quick peek into the years between 1910 and 1919.

During these ten years, women's fashion underwent major changes. The previous rigidity of the century's first decade was replaced with a less restricted standard. In the first half of the decade, fashion was characterized by an air of opulence. Corsets became less tight, sometimes even minimal or completely neglected. The popular dress form of the era was slender and lithe, as opposed to the curvy ideals of the corseted past. The movement known as Art Nouveau also began in this era, a craze originating in Europe in response to the Industrial Revolution and that quickly spread to North America, characterized by geometric lines and decorative designs. A new craze for Orientalism also swept through the nation, popularizing exotic designs such as the kimono and turbans. Some of the most popular designers of this era included Paul Poiret, Jacques Doucet, and Mariano Fortuny. Waistlines were high and loose at the start of the decade, gradually dropping to the natural waistline as years passed. Tunics, tailored jackets, and fur coats were commonly worn over skirts, which were ankle to calf length.

Flowing forms and furs: elegance and splendor of early 1910's fashion

The latter half of the decade, however, found itself with a whole new set of fashion standards. World War I (1914-1919) meant that male designers were drafted into the army and trade with textile suppliers was cut off. However, the absence of men on duty meant that women gained an increased role in society. The hobble skirt that first appeared earlier in the decade remained a popular design, but its tight-fitting form restricted the wearer's stride. Shorter, calf-length skirts began appearing to accommodate more active lifestyles.

The Hobble Skirt

The absence of male designers also meant the opportunity for the rise of female ones. Coco Chanel (previously mentioned in the Roaring Twenties post) had her first start during this time, producing designs such as loose-fitting chemises with belts at the hip, casual pleated skirts, and expensive wool jerseys popular with the wealthy for their youthful, casual elegance. She also popularized the use of costume jewelry, which were cheap alternatives to expensive pieces that working women could wear while they labored. Large hats with wide brims, short-heeled shoes, and "tango" shoes were popular at this time as well.

The Rise of Chanel

Sources:
http://tirocchi.stg.brown.edu/514/story/fashion_teens.html
http://www.ariaaustin.com/1910s.html