Pick of the Day: February 14, 2012

Happy Valentine's Day!

The two looks featured here come from the Jason Wu Fall 2012 Collection. I chose this collection to be featured today because I think the pieces have a sultry, romantic appeal to them without needing the stereotypical frills and rosy hues often associated with the holiday for celebrating love. This collection adopts an Oriental influence with its choice of floral prints and vibrant colors that I adored, and the beading and embroidery details are just gorgeous. Several pieces also made use of furs and structured forms, lending the clothing an elegant, sophisticated feel. I thought this collection also echoed the trends of the 1910's, namely the Orientalism, use of furs, and occasional hobble skirt design.

My favorite piece from all of them is, however, the dress below, a stunning LBD (I'll be the first to confess I have an unhealthy obsession with those) with a high slit and belted waist. The fit is flattering, and the shoulder detailing adds the perfect amount of adornment to an otherwise simple number. 

Pick of the Day: February 12, 2012

Lanvin Spring/Summer 2011 Ready-to-Wear Collection

This is yet another .gif animation, so click through to see it in motion. I loved the flowing lines and warm, earthy tones of this ensemble. The way the fabric moves and sort of catches in the air makes it look almost ethereal. It's simple, but elegant, and elaborate without being overdone. 

Pick of the Day: February 4, 2012

Carolina Herrera Resort 2012 Collection

I promised I would return to this collection periodically as I conducted more research! I wasn't exaggerating when I said that there is literally a piece for every decade of the twentieth century among its pieces. This particular, shimmering number reminded me of the flowing form and glowing opulence of the 1930's. The draping skirt and folds recalled the popular bias cut of the era, and the use of what appears to be almost metallic embroidery or fabric reflects the air of glamour that was present in the evening dresses of the era. I can almost imagine the iconic Ginger Rogers in this sparkling number. The epitome of elegance.

Fashion in the 1930's

The 1930's witnessed a return from the casual, boyish looks of the Roaring Twenties to a more sophisticated, ladylike style. Round busts, gentle waistlines, and sleek, streamlined forms were popular and characteristic of the era. The cloche hat of the '20's was replaced with small, flat hats. Wealthy women could afford to wear elaborate gowns at night, embellished with sequins and beads.

One of the most popular trends of this era was the so-called bias method of cross-cutting. This was a design  popularized by French designer Madeleine Vionnet, who also made famous designs such as the cowl neck and halter neck. This method, which involved cutting fabrics at a 45-degree angle rather than a straight grain, allowed the fabric to drape in sinuous folds and move with the curves of the body. Dresses of satin, silk, chiffon, and more could produce fluid, tight-fitting dress forms that showed off women's slender bodies (the invention of contraception during this era meant women could make conscious decisions about having children, and thus many chose not to). Tans were considered attractive in this time period, and thus many dresses featured open backs to show off tans.

Bias Cut Dresses

Glamorous evening gowns made of lightweight materials and following the trends of bias cuts and streamlined figures were popularized by such glamorous stars of the era such as the dancer and actress Ginger Rogers, who made the look iconic. The following are some of her gorgeous gowns, which have earned her a reputation as a style icon.

 

Actress/Dancer Ginger Rogers

Other trends that gained popularity during this era included pleated knee-length skirts longer in the back than in the front, the use of zippers in clothing (promoted by Italian designer Elsa Schiaparelli, Chanel's rival), the replacement of bulky stockings with newly-invented nylon hose, and sport dress, which included suit-like patterns and the newly-permitted female trousers. 

Early in the decade, disaster struck in the form of the 1929 Stock Market crash that sent millions of Americans in economic crisis overnight. Though this crisis was mostly alleviated halfway through the decade, new conflict awaited as the stirrings of war with Europe were already being felt by the end of the ten years. At this point, the opulent, glamorous lifestyle and way of dress of the 30's was beginning to give way to the need for functionality in the form of trousers and sweaters.

Sources:
http://fashion-era.com/stylish_thirties.htm
http://tirocchi.stg.brown.edu/514/story/fashion_thirties.html