New Year and New Ideas

Aloha! I just made it back from vacation in Hawaii a few hours ago. The trip was wonderful (and the islands are gorgeous!) but unfortunately, I did not have ready internet access, and thus, I could not update this blog or do extensive online research into my ISP topic.

I did, however, have a burst of inspiration during my vacation-- an epiphany, if you will. I was window shopping with my mother among the street kiosks set up down by Waikiki Beach, in Honolulu, when we wandered across a particularly interesting piece for sale. One stand had laid out a shaped piece of wood with holes in the sides and a long, thick string attached.The vendor claimed that it was a pair of shoes. I was baffled by this claim until the vendor picked up the two bizarre items and demonstrated how by threading the string through the holes in a variety of different patterns, one could create a pair of flip flops or gladiator sandals or any sort of lacing the wearer chose. The design was simple and innovative, and it was incredible how many different designs could be produced at whim with unexpectedly cheap supplies (although being a tourist shop, the shoes on sale were terribly overpriced).

This got me thinking. My ISP project focuses on the investigation of fashion trends in relation to social atmosphere and the ever-changing needs and ambitions of society. I've been working to trace the road to gender and class equality through observing how normal, day-to-day fashion has become increasingly homogeneous within American society, and evermore adapted for a comfortable and active lifestyle. Society is advancing with the goals of achieving maximum efficiency, comfort, and usefulness. And what would say that better than clothes that can be made from easily accessible materials, put together within seconds, and convertible according to the wearer's own personal taste?

I did some more research into DIY fashions and convertible clothing when I got home today. It's amazing how many creative and beautiful things can be made from the simplest materials and designs! A large piece of cloth can be a scarf, a shawl, a headband, a belt, a sarong skirt, or even a dress. Beautiful jewelry can be made from supplies as basic as safety pins or buttons. One of my particular favorite designs is the "infinity dress", so named because it is a single, simple yet elegant dress with long straps that can be worn in numerous different ways. Better yet, I even found a site that provided a tutorial on how to make it yourself!

The "Infinity" Dress

I've been planning to present my project in the form of a fashion show through the ages, but this recent insight has given me a new idea. Why not, in addition to sharing with others a look into the couture of the past, also give a peek at the potential of the future? It could be fun to create a miniature line of fashion that embodies the essence of a society that is ever on the move and striving to create a better, easier lifestyle.

We'll see how this goes. I will hopefully be able to conclude basic research soon, so that I can begin the design process of this project.

Happy New Year, everybody!

Fashion in the 1910's

I realize that I skipped this decade and wrote about the 1920's a while ago, so I decided it's time to travel back into the past for another quick peek into the years between 1910 and 1919.

During these ten years, women's fashion underwent major changes. The previous rigidity of the century's first decade was replaced with a less restricted standard. In the first half of the decade, fashion was characterized by an air of opulence. Corsets became less tight, sometimes even minimal or completely neglected. The popular dress form of the era was slender and lithe, as opposed to the curvy ideals of the corseted past. The movement known as Art Nouveau also began in this era, a craze originating in Europe in response to the Industrial Revolution and that quickly spread to North America, characterized by geometric lines and decorative designs. A new craze for Orientalism also swept through the nation, popularizing exotic designs such as the kimono and turbans. Some of the most popular designers of this era included Paul Poiret, Jacques Doucet, and Mariano Fortuny. Waistlines were high and loose at the start of the decade, gradually dropping to the natural waistline as years passed. Tunics, tailored jackets, and fur coats were commonly worn over skirts, which were ankle to calf length.

Flowing forms and furs: elegance and splendor of early 1910's fashion

The latter half of the decade, however, found itself with a whole new set of fashion standards. World War I (1914-1919) meant that male designers were drafted into the army and trade with textile suppliers was cut off. However, the absence of men on duty meant that women gained an increased role in society. The hobble skirt that first appeared earlier in the decade remained a popular design, but its tight-fitting form restricted the wearer's stride. Shorter, calf-length skirts began appearing to accommodate more active lifestyles.

The Hobble Skirt

The absence of male designers also meant the opportunity for the rise of female ones. Coco Chanel (previously mentioned in the Roaring Twenties post) had her first start during this time, producing designs such as loose-fitting chemises with belts at the hip, casual pleated skirts, and expensive wool jerseys popular with the wealthy for their youthful, casual elegance. She also popularized the use of costume jewelry, which were cheap alternatives to expensive pieces that working women could wear while they labored. Large hats with wide brims, short-heeled shoes, and "tango" shoes were popular at this time as well.

The Rise of Chanel

Sources:
http://tirocchi.stg.brown.edu/514/story/fashion_teens.html
http://www.ariaaustin.com/1910s.html

Pick of the Day: December 10, 2011

Sadly, I don't know who the designer of this collection is, but I found these on an art blog, and just thought they were too neat not to post. The outfits are inspired by a theme of design supplies: the dress above, for example, is supposed to resemble colored tape or ribbons. The outfit on the bottom is an imitation of a colored pencil. The sharply pleated skirt even features a long train (not pictured) that is meant to resemble the sharpened pencil's chain of wood shavings. 

The designs are all part of a spread for Madame magazine. It is a collaboration between art director Hattie Newman and photographer Matthew Brodie. Fashion photography is always so gorgeous. And what a creative idea!

Pick of the Day: December 7, 2011

Versace 2012 Resort Collection

This isn't my favorite collection of all time, but I like the emphasis put on contrast here. As an artist myself, I have experience with the importance of using design elements such as color and variety in pattern to create harmony and aesthetic appeal. Common tenets of design involve pairing opposites with each other: patterns with solids, loose fits with tight ones, etc. Here, the bright, colorful accessories add a playful touch to the seriousness of the black and white, and lessen the severity of the monochromatic color scheme with a little bit of fun. 

Pick of the Day: December 1, 2011

Carolina Herrera Resort 2012 Collection

I came across this collection today on www.fashioncollections.org, and I literally saved just about every image in the lookbook. The first thing that caught my eye was the vibrancy of the red and black poppy print on white. I love floral designs, but it's easy to go wrong with them if they're overdone or boring. This print, however, looks almost alive, the way the paint splatters seem to flow and drag along in the presence of some nonexistent wind. Upon taking a closer look at the other pieces in the collection, I was thrilled to find that they displayed a wide range of different patterns and designs, each different and yet harmonious with the next. Crisp, solid white gives way to blazing red, which turns the stage over to playful black and white polka dots, and finally to lavender and orange silk and flowing golden tulle. 

As a bonus, each design reminded me of different eras in fashion history, which may have been a basis of inspiration for the collection. The two pictures posted today, for example, showcase pieces that bear resemblance to the day wear of the 1940's, during which knee-length dresses and collared tailored or trench coats, belted at the waist, became popular (and still are today, as this collection proves).

There are at least ten other looks from this collection that I want to post about at some point in the future. I think I will devote a few days especially to this collection, posting pictures in sets according to which era they belong in. I've been reading through 20th Century Fashion, by John Peacock, and the illustrations are incredibly useful in my mission to pinpoint certain trends fast. If I can figure out how to, I might try to upload scans of pages alongside historically-inspired picks of the day, to show the similarities between them.

Pick of the Day: November 27, 2011

Model Nyasha Matonhodze in Alexander McQueen for Vogue Nippon 2011

(photo courtesy of modeavenueparis.com)

I came across this photo today and found it absolutely stunning. Haute couture is brilliant on its own, but putting it to use through fashion photography just makes it all the more breathtaking. Also, I clearly still haven't gotten over my obsession with embellished detail yet. I wonder if I could incorporate this level of detail into a design piece myself? Something to keep in mind. And it makes for good incentive to finish this research as soon as possible!

Pick of the Day: November 26, 2011

Chanel Resort/Cruise 2011 Collection

Following a research session on the twenties, what designer better to feature than the iconic Coco Chanel? I loved how this collection mixes the best of modern fashion with the classic staples of design that won Chanel fame so many decades ago: the casual loose-fitting apparel, the basic crocheted handbag, and strings upon strings of pearls. The combination creates an elegant, sophisticated look that is classy without being excessive. It just goes to prove that some things truly are timeless.

The Roaring Twenties!

I realized I skipped a decade between this and the last post, but I've been looking forward to doing research on this decade for some time now, and I absolutely had to get it done. Since APUSH last year, when I first learned about American life in the tumultuous 1920's, epitomized by rebellious symbols such as the flapper girl, I've been anticipating an opportunity to look further into the subject. Here's a first look at what I've learned today.

The decade was characterized by a general air of rebellion and daring. Gangsters and bootleggers made use of city streets, and nightclubs became popular with the rise of the nightlife scene. So-called "Flaming Youths" lived day to day with risqué mottoes such as "Tomorrow we may die, so let's get drunk and make love." (Lois Long) The middle class also increased significantly in affluence.

"Flapper" fashion

Women's fashion during the Jazz Age was all about liberation. Following the end of World War I (1914-1918), women gained increasing prominence in the social and economic spheres, including winning the right to vote in 1920. Women who had experienced a taste of freedom and opportunity during the war, in the absence of men to control them, now spurned the stiff restrictions of previous Victorianism. Corsets and bustles only hindered their refined, expanded daily agendas. Dress hemlines gradually shrank over the decade, from being floor-length to mid-calf to knee-length, and waistlines also dropped lower and lower over time. The structured, fitted shapes of previous fashions was replaced by a new, relaxed fit, almost to the point that day dresses became entirely shapeless and hanging. Even shoe choice was affected by this new live-free ideal: T-bar heels became wildly popular, because women could dance in them for hours without worrying about them falling off. This new ideal in both social persona and physical appearance was epitomized by the Flapper Girl, who dressed in the garconne ("little boy") style popularized by the brilliant Coco Chanel and lived on the edge.

1920's Day Dresses

That's not to say, however, that fashion completely lost its elegance and elaborateness. High fashion designers that are still iconic today, such as Chanel, Lanvin, and Patou, had their beginnings in this decade. Fashion icons such as Louise Brooks popularized bobbed hair in the garconne style. Floral prints, pastel colors, and patterns inspired by the popular Art Deco style of the era were stylish trends, and evening gowns were no less elegant than in the past. Cloche hats, heeled shoes, matching accessories, and stockings or tights with garters were also popular at this time. Women tried to mimic men: girls cut their hair into short bobs, wore suits and sportswear, and lived lifestyles of sexual liberation similar to men's. However, on the other hand, women also began to wear makeup more avidly during this decade, behavior that in the past had only been carried out by loose women.

Fashion icon Louise Brooks

Sources:
http://www.1920s-fashion-and-music.com/1920s-fashion.html
http://fashionbloglife.com/1920sfashion/
http://glamourdaze.blogspot.com/2010/05/1920s-fashion-womens-dress-and-style.html
http://history1900s.about.com/od/1920s/a/flappers.htm

Pick of the Day: November 25, 2011

Versace Spring 2012 Collection

I was browsing through some collections and this immediately caught my eye. I have a passion for detail, I think. This collection has this incredible marine theme-- bejeweled starfish, seahorses, seashell patterns. The pieces are elegant, clean, and glowing. Though the colors are somewhat bland (mostly white and black, with the occasional pale blue or yellow), the designs make up for what the tones lack in daring. 

Also, happy belated Thanksgiving and Black Friday to everyone! Tomorrow's gonna be a workday, so hopefully I will be able to do more research on this project then.

Pick of the Day: November 23, 2011

Alexander McQueen 2012 Resort Collection

[click through the first image for .gif animation]

This collection reminded me of the 1900's I was researching earlier today. The designs are intricate and luxurious, and the tailored fit of the pieces recalls the style of the turn of the century. I absolutely love this dress on the bottom; the contrast between the tight-fitting top and loose, flowing bottom is gorgeous.

I also came across another fashion site today that I think I might look to in the future for inspirations. Insofar, it's a convenient and interesting catalog of not only designer lookbooks, but even some fashion show reviews: http://www.fashioncollections.org/

Fashion in the 1900's

Break is finally here, and with it, more time to work on this project! Today I decided to do some more research into fashion at the turn of the century. 

The twentieth century brought with it both the hope for something new, as well as a longing for the traditions of the Victorianism of the past. The decade from 1900 to 1910 was also known as the Edwardian Era, after Victoria's successor. It also embodied a part of La Belle Epoque, the French-named "Beautiful Age" of luxury and aesthetic beauty (Paris was the apex of the fashion world). In women's fashion, trends patterned themselves around the national ideal of femininity, embodied in the so-called Gibson Girl, named after the satirical ink illustrations by artist Charles Dana Gibson. In some ways, the Gibson Girl and Gibson Man were the Barbie and Ken of the era. Gibson girls embodied the era's ideal of women who were competitive, liberated, but nevertheless beautiful.

Gibson Girls as drawn by Charles Dana Gibson

The decade featured a new socialism and sense of identity. As more women began to find opportunity in the work force, the traveling and tailor suit and other tailored clothing began to emerge from the need for convenient, all-purpose clothing. However, women's fashion was still elaborate. Dresses were made in two pieces, and corsets and bustles were still common, if not mandated. The ideal body shape popularized by the Gibson Girl was hourglass, and partly due to the voluminousness of the upper portion of clothing, small, narrow feet were considered beautiful. Popular shoes were often narrow or pointed boots with short heels.

Sources:

http://buff-history.buzzsugar.com/History-Fashion-1900---1910-1535251

http://www.eyewitnesstohistory.com/gibson.htm

Pick of the Day: November 4, 2011

Emanuel Ungaro Spring/Summer 2012
[Click through for .gif animation]

I discovered an amazing site today called http://modeavenueparis.com/ with the most incredible fashion GIFs. There are so many brilliant designers I've never even heard of before, like Emanuel Ungaro, who I am beginning to discover through this blog. I'm excited to get to work with it more later on. 

I also hope to be able to delve further into historical fashion soon. Modern design is so fascinating to look at, but I need to do more research on the past for my project. I think I might opt to write a paper covering fashion through history back into the early fifteen century or so, but have the main body of the presentation itself cover twentieth century America. Just a thought in progress.

Pick of the Day: November 3, 2011

Lanvin Spring 2012 Resort Collection

[Click through for larger image]
I wandered across this collection today, and absolutely fell in love with it. These pieces are all so simple, and yet they have this sort of casual elegance about them that I admire so much. The blues and yellows complement each other wonderfully, and overall, it creates a gorgeous warm weather look. This is just Lanvin's 2012 pre-collection; I can't wait to see how the actual Spring/Summer line turns out.

To see more pieces from this collection, visit: http://www.lanvin.com/#/en/collections/womens-spring-summer-2012/resort

Pick of the Day: October 30, 2011

Vivienne Westwood Red Label Autumn/Winter 2009

I was checking up on London Fashion Week (http://www.londonfashionweek.co.uk/) and browsing different designers when I came across this. It's an older collection, but the vibrancy of the colors caught my eye. Bright colors in winter are a sight for sore eyes, and I think this embodies that idea well. I adore the color and loose fit of the sweater, and while I'm not the biggest fan of the mustard yellow color of the knee-high boots, they do add a little extra something to the look. Note to self: don't be afraid to take risks with fashion. It can produce unexpected results, in a good way.

New Books!

Saturday, October 29, 2011

During English class on Friday, Anita gave me her old ISP research books! She looked into fashion design for her ISP last year, although her topic was slightly different from mine, and she didn't have any more use for the books, so she passed them on to me. I flipped through them, and they are absolutely beautiful.

The first book, produced in collaboration with Vogue magazine, not only debriefs each decade of the twentieth century in terms of fashion trends, but also contains descriptions and pictures of the works of hundreds of individual designers and fashion lines. I skimmed through it, and it is truly incredible. If I find anything I particularly like when I go through it more closely, I'll post it.

The second book contains over 1100 colored illustrations of the clothing worn by women throughout the whole of the twentieth century, ranging from underwear to leisure wear to wedding gowns. Each picture comes with a detailed description of every article of clothing and accessory that comprises the outfit. When I start designing my own pieces, I think this will be a very useful source to reference.

I'm even more excited about this project now. When I get a chance, I'll start looking closer at each era and pick out which ones to concentrate research in. I have a good feeling about this project.

A million thanks to the beautiful Anita for giving me these amazing books!

Pick of the Day: October 28, 2011 and Galaxy Duck

Christopher Kane Spring/Summer 2011 Pre-Collection: Galaxy Print

I was working on my IBSO Duck today, and couldn't decide on how to design it. Luckily, I wandered across these gorgeous galaxy prints when I was looking for inspiration. The design is vibrant, lively, simple yet intricate. I would love to possibly replicate it sometime in the future. The duck project makes for excellent preparation! I tried to recreate a preliminary design using a bizarre mix of acrylic, watercolor, and oil paints on computer paper (which, given how much it caused my paper to wear and tear, I assume is a medium mixture I will not be revisiting in the future). I based my colors off of the Orion nebula, although I couldn't resist throwing in a spiral galaxy, as tribute to our own beloved Milky Way.

The Orion Nebula

As I was working within restricted time and materials, I was unable to develop an especially effective method of creating the nebula effect. I began by painting the white computer paper black with acrylic paint, and then randomly squeezing dots of color in random areas on the surface. Initially, I experimented with an array of golden hues and even green, but ultimately, this ended up looking more like an organic smoothie than a nightscape. When this initial failed coat dried, I went back over it, using the same random dotting and blending method, but with shades of blue and violet this time. Satisfied with this color scheme, I finished off by adding white stars of various sizes in white acrylic paint. This entire process spanned about two hours. The ultimate final product is below:

(Finally) Finished IBSO Duck!

The method and pattern could use a little more adjustment and improvement, but overall, I'm happy with how this turned out. If I choose to use the galaxy print in the final presentation, this has been good practice, and definitely one of the most fun homework assignments I've had in quite a while. Not a bad way to end the week!

Pick of the Day: October 27, 2011

Givenchy Fall/Winter 2011 Pre-Collection

Today's weather was actually vaguely reminiscent of fall, which was a pleasant surprise, and what better way to celebrate than with a quick look into cold weather fashion? While I adore formal wear and eccentric design, I found the more traditional, humble appearance of this ensemble to be aesthetically appealing. Best of all, it doesn't look too flashy, meaning that this could probably be worn for venues as casual as school.

Pick of the Day: October 26, 2011

I intend on starting a new pick of the day stream, so that I'll have something to show for even if I don't have the time to sit down and do full-out research. These will probably just be random articles of clothing, patterns, designers, etc. that I like or find inspirational, mostly for personal future reference than anything else.

I came across this dress on another blog, and absolutely fell in love with it. Purple is my favorite color (closely followed by navy blue), and this just has a gorgeous, flowing elegance about it. The asymmetrical design, with a short front and a long train, is an interesting, but beautiful idea. I wish I knew who designed this-- I'd love to view the entire collection!

Elizabethan Era - 1

Wednesday, October 26, 2011

I've been studying for my Euro test tomorrow for hours, and figured it was about time I allowed myself a little break. Which basically translated into, "let's find indirect ways to continue subtly doing Euro."

I did some research into the Elizabethan era style of dress, though I only had time enough to skim the text and note down a few resources for future reference. Some sites I found useful that I might return to in the future are:

http://www.elizabethan-era.org.uk/elizabethan-clothing.htm

http://www.the-tudors.org.uk/tudor-clothes.htm

http://www.medieval-life-and-times.info/medieval-clothing/index.htm

In the Elizabethan era/Tudor dynasty/medieval times/whatever you choose to call it, clothing was very strictly moderated. Clothing worn by higher and middle or lower classes differed significantly. Women, in particular, were required to wear several pieces of clothing simultaneously, including multiple layers of undergarments and various accessory pieces. Certain laws, called Sumptuary Laws, governed the apparel worn by different individuals in society. Failure to adhere to these strict guidelines could result in severe punishments, from fines to loss of property or title, to death. It's little wonder there was not much room for creative fashion design back then...

Getting Started

Tuesday, October 25, 2011

Although I'm still not sure how I intend to carry out this project, I have decided upon the basic goals: that it will deal with principles of fashion design in relation to historical circumstances and that I hope to ultimately produce my own fashion show.

Arguably, a wise place to start in investigating something such as historical change over time would be at the beginning of the timeline. However, I feel instead that perhaps moving backwards--tracing change over time from the familiar present to the foreign past-- may be more effective in understanding how such changes in culture and society have their impact on the aesthetic world. Or perhaps even moving about with the liberty to teleport at any given moment to some point in time on a evanescent whim; there are many paths to take that will all lead to the common final destination. Which path this blog will take can only be determined by time itself.

-

I had some free time today, so I spent two hours following Paris Fashion Week online at http://www.parisfashionweek.com. I'm especially impressed with the Fall/Winter 2011 collections of Zac Posen (who makes elegant use of sheer and gradient dyes), Alexander McQueen (which employs fabulous creativity in variety and implementation of inspiration), Givenchy (which seems to be focusing on sleek animal prints and black and white color schemes), Hermes (a leathery Western theme), Lanvin (whose flowing, zipper-embellished designs were both elegant and also dangerously bland in their monochromatic colors), and Valentino (who delivered, as usual, stunning formal pieces).

My favorite collection though, was that Elie Saab's Fall/Winter line. I have always been a fan of the designer's loyal engagement to flowing, elegant patterns and eye-catching prints, and this collection, like so many others, did not disappoint.

I will start to compile design trends sometime in the near future, and start separating the years into general eras by which to investigate characteristics.